From the wire side from left to right, the white/black stripe is POWER, solid black is VIDEO NEGATIVE, solid red is VIDEO POSITIVE, solid gray is GROUND. A 5-6 hour trip would put the wear and tear of a normal year on the camera, assuming you would be using it for about a minute every day.Click to expand.PICTURE 1 is the custom harness that holds the backup camera/microphone/OBD-II-BUS wires. Some users were having success in tapping into a blue wire in the rear of the car attached to the wiper motor but this is problematic because it is a switched power source, which means that your camera is now powered on for the duration of each and every trip. This would lower the WAF of the project well below acceptable thresholds. just in case you want to use your camera later that trip. This means that you can hook into the reverse lights to power your camera, but in order to use it, you would have to shift into reverse every time you start your car within the first 60 seconds. If it does not detect video signal during that time frame, it will not attempt to display the camera feed when you eventually do shift into reverse. So what's the catch? This head unit in particular outputs voltage for 60 seconds after the car starts up to "search" for an installed camera. It outputs 12v, and only does so when the car is actually in reverse, so the camera won't be powered on all the time. It's an extremely simple solution that works extremely well. With little documentation from Toyota (at least that I have access to) about how much current can be safely drawn from the head unit, I wanted to find a safer approach.Ī common technique of hooking up rear view cameras in vehicles is to tap the reverse light power. In addition to the hit or miss nature of the cameras, I didn't want to run any sort of substantial power draw from the head unit anyways. Many were unsuccessful in getting this low voltage to work and it seemed to be heavily dependent on what camera was selected as almost all cameras are rated for 12v. It's important to note that this output gets activated whenever the car is in reverse, or when the car is searching for the camera. Some users on PriusChat were successful in powering their cameras from the powered output on the head unit marked 5.5-6.5v in his write up (I measured this as 6.33V). What I did change, however, was how the camera was getting power. I used this as a guide for most of my install, including the pins on the wiring harness, how to remove the body panels, etc. One user I'd like to particularly thank, Mik1, gave a write up on his installation. I did some Googling and found posts on the PriusChat forums regarding some success in getting aftermarket cameras hooked up to the factory head unit. Due to this, I opted to purchase the "three" trim, which comes with a 6-7 inch color display in which I hoped to mod to facilitate my original requirement. Of course the Prius did not come with a backup camera, nor was it even offered, at least in the great US of A (In Australia it's an option!). My one request for this vehicle was that it had a backup camera, as I parallel park with the finesse of a drunken bull.ĭue to one other requirement (it needed to be super short in length as I have a tandem garage) I wound up with a Prius C. I recently took a new job and had to buy an additional car as my wife had the only one for the family.
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